In Portugal, this former royal capital is a little-known pearl of the Iberian peninsula

In Portugal, this former royal capital is a little-known pearl of the Iberian peninsula

Capital of the Portuguese kingdom until the 13th century, Coimbra now rules the banks of the Mondego as a prestigious university town in central Portugal. Gothic palaces, Baroque convents, narrow streets and terraced gardens are the hallmarks of a city dedicated to learning, steeped in history and academic tradition. A city you can explore in a weekend!

What to see and do in Coimbra, a former royal capital and city of learning

The University of Coimbra, Portugal's premier academic centre since 1290

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the University of Coimbra stands on Alcaçova hill, upon the site of the former royal palace. A blend of architectural styles, it reflects seven centuries of intellectual life. The courtyard, paved with white and black pebbles and girded by arcades, leads to the Joanina Library, an 18th century Baroque building adorned with gilded woodwork, illusionist frescoes and colossal shelving. Nearby, the São Miguel Chapel, built in the 16th century, houses an exceptional organ with 2,000 pipes decorated with Hispano-Moorish motifs. On the esplanade, the university tower, erected in 1728, watches over the old student quarters, known as repúblicas.

The old town, a maze of narrow streets, staircases and churches

On the hillside, the Alta district is home to Coimbra's oldest monuments, including the elegant Sé Velha, a 12th century cathedral looking like a fortress. Its Romanesque portal, topped by a defensive gallery, opens onto a sober Gothic cloister planted with agapanthus. Inside, the Blessed Sacrament chapel stands out for with magnificent Mudéjar-style azulejos. Further down towards the Baixa district, you will come across another of Coimbra's major buildings, the Santa Cruz monastery, recognisable by its Manueline façade. This is the resting place of Afonso Henriques, the first monarch of Portugal, whose tomb is a reminder of the city's royal origins.

The botanical garden and terraces of the Almedina hill

Founded in the 18th century, the university's botanical garden spreads across 13 hectares west of the campus. You access it via a path lined with giant camphor trees. This leads to an orange garden and a water stairway planted with papyrus, tree ferns and palm trees. Further down, a small cast-iron bridge spans a pond covered with water lilies. To the south, the Almedina hill offers new vantage points over of the city: follow the narrow streets of the district to the Arco de Almedina, the old medieval gateway, and you will reach the Miradouro do Penedo da Saudade, where poems carved in stone celebrate the exuberance of student life.

The Machado de Castro National Museum, between Roman forum and religious sculptures

Built on the remains of the Roman cryptoportico of the ancient Aeminium, the Machado de Castro Museum offers a fascinating immersion in the history of Coimbra. The visit begins in the underground galleries dating back to the first century, before travelling back in time through the Gothic sculptures of the Santa Cruz cloisters, the Mannerist altarpieces, the Flemish tapestries and the Portuguese earthenware. The former episcopal palace housing the museum also offers uninterrupted views over the rooftops of the old town, thanks to a loggia above the forum.

Where to eat and stay in Coimbra: Our favourite hotels and restaurants

O Palco

In an intimate venue just a stone's throw from the historic centre, chef Marco Almeida works on a cuisine based on local produce. Suckling pig, snails, Atlantic fish and scallop rice are revisited in his meticulously crafted and creative menus.

Avenida Dom Afonso Henriques

3000-011 Coimbra

www.o-palco.pt

Solar do Bacalhau

In the Baixa district, next to Largo da Portagem, this traditional restaurant serves cod in all its forms: bacalhau à Brás, bacalhau com natas, bacalhau à lagareiro. With a welcoming atmosphere, generous servings and a well-put-together menu, this is a great dining spot!

Rua da Sota 10

3000-392 Coimbra

facebook.com/solardobacalhau/

Sapientia Boutique Hotel

Right against the walls of the university, this small boutique hotel spans three renovated buildings around an inner courtyard. The tastefully furnished rooms combine antique parquet flooring, designer furniture and views over the rooftops or the river. At the end of the day, head for the panoramic terrace to admire Coimbra and the Mondego valley, died pink in the setting sun.

Rua José Falcão 4

3000-222 Coimbra

http://sapientiaboutiquehotel.com/

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