A New Era of Color in Minimalist Watchmaking
H. Moser and Cie has long been recognized for its commitment to minimalism in the world of haute horlogerie. The Endeavour collection, with its uncluttered dials, is a prime example of this philosophy. However, the brand’s latest endeavor, the Endeavour Pop collection, marks a significant departure from monochromatic aesthetics, introducing vibrant, colorful dials enhanced by ornamental stones.
This shift represents a modern reinterpretation of the round watch, which previously leaned toward simplicity. The introduction of the Endeavour Pop collection showcases a bold new direction, blending the brand's signature minimalism with an artistic flair that highlights the natural beauty of gemstones.
The journey of H. Moser and Cie began in 1828, but it wasn't until 2015 that the brand introduced its first minimalist Concept model—a dial free from indices or logos. This marked a turning point in the company's history, leading to a revival that would eventually see the brand establish itself as a respected independent watchmaker.
Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, in north Switzerland, H. Moser and Cie produces approximately 4,000 watches annually. This limited production aligns with the brand's "Very Rare" philosophy, emphasizing exclusivity and craftsmanship. The Endeavour Pop collection continues this tradition, offering a series of limited editions that combine clean dials with the striking presence of ornamental stones.
Design and Variations
The steel timepieces in the Endeavour Pop collection feature pairs of stones that create visually stunning contrasts. These include Burmese jade with pink opal, lapis lazuli with lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise with coral. Each combination results in six variations of the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop, with each version available in only 28 pieces.
For example, one model features a pink opal subdial at 6 o'clock against a green face made from Burmese jade, while another reverses this arrangement. The design elements are carefully chosen to enhance the visual appeal of each piece, creating a harmonious balance between the stones and the overall aesthetic.
The Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop is housed in a 38mm steel case, with a see-through back that reveals the automatic calibre HMC 202, offering a power reserve of 72 hours. Similarly, the self-winding Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop features the calibre HMC 805, providing a three-day power reserve.
Each of the six variations of the 40mm steel models is limited to just eight pieces. In one design, the one-minute flying tourbillon is positioned at 6 o'clock, with a ring in one stone adding a pop of color against the dial crafted from the other stone. Another variation features the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop, where the ornamental stone and a lacquered dial distinguish the design, with hammers and gongs visible on its face.
Craftsmanship and Symbolism
Presented in a 40mm red gold case, each of the six variations of the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop is a unique piece equipped with the HMC 904 hand-wound calibre. The selection of stones was a meticulous process, with criteria including the intensity of color and exceptional clarity.
For instance, high-quality Burmese jade is characterized by green veins, clouds, or speckles, while Peruvian pink opal is known for its cloud-like patterns and natural fissures. Lapis lazuli must have a deep, luminous blue shade with minimal pyrite inclusions, and turquoise should exhibit a smooth, even texture without visible veining.
Lemon chrysoprase, sourced from South Africa, stands out for its almost neon-like hue. Finding homogeneous sections of this material in large diameters posed a challenge, while the deep orange coral, sourced from the Pacific Ocean, required a single piece weighing over 6kg. This material selection was a significant achievement in itself.
Beyond their aesthetic appeal, the stones are believed to possess healing and protective properties. Jade symbolizes wisdom and harmony, turquoise represents vitality and protection, and lemon chrysoprase promotes self-confidence. As such, each limited-edition Endeavour Pop becomes more than just a timepiece—it serves as a talisman on the wrist, blending artistry with meaning.