The initial impression you get at the World Cheese Awards is the strong aroma.
As the 37th edition — a mix of competition and a tribute to cheese — began in Switzerland on Thursday, some attendees might hope the selections had more holes. With descriptions of smells ranging from "stinky socks" to "sick dog," it's undoubtedly a festival — and a test — for the nose as much as for the mouth, fingers, and eyes.
Welcome to sensory overload.
Enthusiasts, food specialists, and inquisitive customers gathered at the three-day event in a nation where cheese is considered both cuisine and tradition. The first day began with the competition, which included more than 5,200 cheeses, almost one-fifth from Switzerland. Approximately 46 countries participated, marking a new high for entries from Australia to Austria, Bulgaria to Brazil.
Every item displayed in the same Bern exhibition hall created a unique mix of smells. However, after moving past this combination of odors, the visual aspects, tastes, and distinct fragrances of the cheeses became irresistible.
From "Stinking Bishop" to camel milk cheese
John Farrand, the managing director of the Guild of Fine Food in Britain, who organizes the event, mentions that some individuals who claim they "don't like cheese, it's that smelly thing" simply need to spend more time and explore the wide range of options available.
I would take them and sit down with them, guiding them through the journey of cheese," he said. "I often hear people say on a whim, 'I don't like blue cheese,' but that's really not possible. There's such a wide variety of blue cheese, from here to there," — Farrand motioned around the room — "there's always a blue cheese that someone will enjoy.
He spoke enthusiastically about a 120-kg (265-pound) wheel of cheese that teams brought in and "broke" — or sliced open — releasing a strong smell.
The scent of this Emmentaler suddenly struck me," Farrand said. "This is the first time this cheese has shown its true excellence, and the fragrance... it really makes you hungry.
Some might find the bacteria-induced "bleu" cheeses unappealing or dismiss the pungent smells of types such as Limberger, Taleggio, "Stinking Bishop," and Époisses de Bourgogne — a Burgundy product known to have been Napoleon's favorite, and so strongly scented that folklore suggests it is prohibited on public transportation in France.
Some people may struggle to overcome their hesitation in trying cheese made from a camel (or buffalo or donkey), or may feel uncomfortable with unpasteurized or soft cheeses. More daring tasters, however, will go for the most gooey or moldy options, seeking out the richest, creamiest, or most meaty varieties available.
For the judges, there is no such hesitation: it's more about examination, enjoyment, critique, and inquisitiveness.
Tight guidelines for magistrates and media personnel
Numerous judges wearing yellow aprons surrounded the rows of long, numbered rectangular tables before starting to eat. They cut slices from firm cheeses and brought them to their noses, or used spreaders to pick up soft cheeses, examining their texture and tasting them by licking or letting them drip onto their tongues.
The designated judging area was separated by a low fence and ropes, with security personnel monitoring the site. Reporters were permitted to enter the space only when accompanied, and they were allowed to observe and smell the cheeses — but not to taste or handle them.
It was a blind tasting session involving over 265 judges: All labels or identifying features on the cheeses were taken off. Their task was to examine, smell, touch, and taste the samples — a challenging job given the large number of options — before deciding on the gold, silver, and bronze winners based on characteristics such as scent, structure, consistency, taste, and "mouthfeel."
Only individuals recognized as "Super Gold" were selected for the glamorous "Super Jury" featuring 14 final cheese entries. The judges — along with the public — only discovered the origins of the cheeses after the voting for each had concluded.
Paul Thomas, a cheese producer from Urstrom Kaese, located south of Berlin, cut into a blue cheese that was topped with cherries and marketed as having notes reminiscent of a Manhattan cocktail. Upon tasting it, he remarked that he was "pleasantly surprised throughout most of the flavor experience."
"But right at the end, it leaves me with something just... it has a slightly unusual taste at the back of the tongue," he added.
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Experts acknowledge that selecting a winner is challenging. Although the end results from "caseiculture"—the processes of curdling, coagulating, cheddaring, and more involved in cheese production—can be evaluated based on factors such as skill and quality, taste remains subjective.
The champion of this year was a Swiss "spezial" Gruyère produced by the Vorderfultigen Mountain Dairy, located approximately 20 kilometers (12 miles) south of Bern, which received 85 points from the judges. The cheese, made from raw cow's milk, was left to drain overnight and then salted dry before being aged for over 18 months.
A smooth, flower-dusted "Crémeux des Aldudes aux fleurs" from the village of Etxaldia in the French Basque region came in second place, following a 9-month-old Swiss Appenzeller Edel-Würzig. Other contenders came from Britain, Japan, the Netherlands, Slovakia, and the United States.
Numerous cheeses have received additional recognition: Over 20 were honored as top choices at the national or regional level — including best American, Basque-country, Japanese, or Ukrainian cheese. Additional awards were presented in specific categories like best cheddar, raw-milk, goat, or sheep cheese, or smoked varieties.
Although the U.S. state of Wisconsin is home to the World Championship Cheese Contest and a French competition determines the best cheesemonger globally, the organizers of the World Cheese Awards claim it is the biggest cheese-focused event in existence. The contest originated in Britain, though Italy, Spain, and Norway have also served as hosts.
Charlie Turnbull, the head of the Academy of Cheese, leaned in toward a round, soft, brownish-orange cheese that emitted a strong odor due to Brevibacterium linens — "a close relative to the bacteria found in boys' shoes around the age of 15."
It's difficult," Turnbull remarked with a small grimace. However, he mentioned that after overcoming the odor, the cheese was delightful, pointing out "traces of fruit, plenty of savory elements, and a touch of ham broth.
"At the conclusion of the day, flavor surpasses all," he stated.